Ahipara is a village in New Zealand's Far North, a part of the world seldom seen by visitors. Like the island nation's offshore islands, it is far off the tourist nexus of Auckland-Christchurch-Queensland, but has much to offer not available in the cities.
You can get to the beachfront community of Ahipara from Auckland, first by plane or road transport to the inland agricultural and service town of Kaitaia, then 14 kilometres west. There are plans for public transport between Kaitaia and Ahipara, and it is a measure of the region's commitment to the environment that the vehicle would operate on biofuel partly sourced from Ahipara's takeaway shop. A good use for the oil used to cook your fish and chips!
Maori Culture and Pioneer History
A settlement of about 1100 people, Ahipara is not a place visitors come to for sightseeing or shopping, but for beauty and spirit. This is the rohe or tribal area of the Te Rarawa people, whose ancestors voyaged from far-away Pacific Islands in the Tinana waka (ocean-going vessel, or "canoe"). According to the Far North District Council, Ahipara means "sacred fire", which in times gone by was kept burning for the community on the current site of the local school.
Rich in Maori history, there are also stories of European settlers, including waves of Dalmatian and Croatian immigrants who began arriving in the 1880s to dig kauri gum (then a major export as an ingredient in varnish). As in other parts of the world where men flocked to "harvest" gold or timber, the diggers worked long days and, if they had families, the women were left at home to cope. Jane Wordsworth, in her collection of stories Women of the Far North (Auckland: Collins, 1981), observes: "Women battled on in their inadequate homes, feeding and clothing the younger children as best they could, waiting until Father returned periodically with a little money in his pocket and a bag of groceries on his back".
Marathon, Ultra Walks and Adventure Sports
Today, aside from history and natural beauty, visitors come to Ahipara for surfing, fishing, horse trekking and access to the stunning Ninety Mile Beach. Traditionally the beach was the most practical way to travel, and these days four-wheel drive tours are a popular attraction. Each year the Te Houtaewa Challenge ultramarathon is run along the beach, along with shorter events and Waka Ama (competitive Maori canoe) races.The event finishes in a festival-style event in the Ahipara Reserve, often featuring displays of traditional Maori tattooing and cultural arts.
The Te Araroa walkway being developed from the top to the tip of New Zealand extends along Ninety Mile Beach. Geoff Chapple, a journalist and key advocate of the "Long Pathway", has written eloquently of the spiritual impact of long walking. New Zealand Prime Minister (and Minister of Tourism) John Key has recently taken up the cause of a cross-country cycleway that might link to Te Araroa and would begin in Kaitaia.
Upcoming articles on Suite 101 will explore other aspects of the history and lifestyle of the Kaitaia/Ahipara district and other parts of the Far North.
Brenda Ann Burke - A writer, and recently a beachcomber, Brenda was born in Canada before moving to Wellington, New Zealand. She has now made a big move to ...
